Discover the Magic of the Feast of Sant’Agata in Catania, Sicily
Have you ever witnessed a festival that combines faith, folklore, and fireworks in a spectacular way? If not, then you should definitely visit Catania, Sicily, during the first week of February, when the city celebrates its patron saint, Agatha, with a three-day extravaganza that attracts millions of people from all over the world.
Well, after living here for three years I finally decided to attend and take the chance to experience this amazing event this year (2023), and I can tell you that it was one of the most memorable experiences of living in Sicily. Here is what I saw and felt during the Feast of Saint Agatha in Catania. And yes, I ended up witnessing it for three days.
Who was Saint Agatha?
Saint Agatha was a young Christian woman who lived in Catania in the 3rd century AD. She refused the advances of the Roman governor Quinziano, who persecuted her for her faith and tortured her by cutting off her breasts. She died as a martyr and became a symbol of courage and purity for the Catanians.
According to legend, after her death, Mount Etna erupted and threatened to destroy the city. The people of Catania took the veil that covered Agatha’s tomb and used it to stop the lava flow. The veil turned red and the eruption ceased. Since then, the Catanians have venerated Agatha as their protector and savior.
How is the Feast of Saint Agatha celebrated?
The Feast of Saint Agatha takes place every year from February 3rd to 5th, and on August 17th. The February dates commemorate the martyrdom of the saint, while the August date celebrates the return of her relics from Constantinople, where they were taken as spoils of war and held for 86 years.
The festival is a mix of religious and secular elements, with processions, ceremonies, concerts, and fireworks. The main protagonist of the festival is the silver bust of Saint Agatha, which contains her relics and is carried on a heavy silver carriage called “a vara“. The bust is adorned with jewels and flowers, and is followed by thousands of devotees dressed in white tunics and black caps, who wave white handkerchiefs and shout “Viva Sant’Agata!”.
The festival begins on February 3rd at noon, with the procession of the “candelore“, which are eleven large candles in baroque gilt casings that represent the ancient guilds of the city. The candelore are carried on the shoulders of strong men, who offer them to the saint as a sign of gratitude and devotion. The procession is accompanied by the civil, religious, and military authorities, who march in their traditional costumes and banners.
In the evening, the city is illuminated by thousands of lights and fireworks, creating a magical atmosphere. A concert is held in the main square, Piazza del Duomo, where the cathedral of Saint Agatha is located. The cathedral is the heart of the festival, where the bust of the saint is kept and venerated by the faithful.
The next day, February 4th, is the most important and intense day of the festival. It starts with the “Messa dell’Aurora” (Mass at Dawn), which is attended by a huge crowd of people. After the mass, the bust of Saint Agatha leaves the cathedral and is pulled by ropes through the streets of the city, passing by the places that are connected to the life and martyrdom of the saint.
The procession is a long and exhausting journey, that lasts for more than 24 hours. The bust is pulled by the devotees, who show their love and passion for the saint by singing, praying, and sometimes crying. The most awaited and thrilling moments of the procession are the “cchianate“, which are sudden accelerations of the carriage, that require a great effort and coordination by the pullers. The most famous cchianate are the ones at the Cappuccini hill and the San Giuliano hill, where the bust is pulled at a run, creating a wave of emotion and excitement among the spectators.
The procession is also a feast for the senses, as the city offers a variety of street food and drinks, such as arancini (rice balls), beccafico (sardines stuffed with breadcrumbs, pine nuts, and raisins), and cannoli (fried pastry tubes filled with ricotta cheese). The smell of incense, flowers, and candles fills the air, while the sound of bells, drums, and chants accompanies the bust.
The procession ends on February 5th, in the early morning, when the bust returns to the cathedral. The devotees greet the saint with cheers and applause, and then go to rest and recover from the long and exhausting night. The festival is not over yet, though, as there is another procession in the afternoon, which follows a different route and ends with another cchianata at the San Giuliano hill.
The festival concludes with a final firework show, that lights up the sky and the sea, creating a stunning spectacle. The city bids farewell to the saint, until the next year, when the magic will happen again.
Where to see the Santa Agata?
Following the Saint might be hard to know its full path. Fortunately, I have some friends that have a terrace in Piazza Iolanda where I saw the saints pass by on February 4 and another friend whose apartment has a balcony right in Via Etnea where she passes February 5 late into the night. Thanks to them I was able to capture some great photos for this blog post.
Don’t worry how to find Saint Agatha. I don’t know its full path but this is the 21st century, and guess what. The saint has an app that shows her live location. Click below to download to your Apple or Android Device.
Why should you visit the Feast of Saint Agatha?
The Feast of Saint Agatha is not just a festival, it is a unique and unforgettable experience that will touch your heart and soul. Seeing the Agatha’s devotees in person can make it an emotional experience. It is a celebration of faith, culture, and tradition, that shows the spirit and identity of Catania and its people. It is a chance to witness a living and vibrant expression of devotion and folklore, that has been passed down for centuries. If you do come for this celebration make it an opportunity to discover the beauty and charm of Catania, a city that is rich in history, art, and gastronomy.
If you want to see and feel something extraordinary, then you should definitely visit the Feast of Saint Agatha in Catania, Sicily. You will not regret it, I promise.
If you have any questions pertaining to this post comment below and I will reply as soon as possible.
